Best Place to Write in Los Angeles #5

What better way to familiarize yourself with a new neighborhood than to explore its coffee shops? I actually grew up in the Highland Park/South Pasadena/Eagle Rock area, but things have changed in the past decade. Now that I’m back, I’ve come to realize that what was once a network of churches, rinky-dink shops and little else, is now turning into yet another L.A. hipster mecca. So I set out with my laptop to rediscover the neighborhoods of my yesteryear; to find a corner in it where I could sit quietly and do what I do.

Cafe de Leche Foam Art

Cafe de Leche–Highland Park

You know what? I was ready to write this place off as a 2 out of 5. The original first sentence of my Cafe de Leche review was, “Meh.” This is why it’s important to give a bad experience a second chance, because Cafe de Leche isn’t meh. Let me explain.

I first arrived at the shop high on three cups of Highland Cafe’s Handsome Coffee. I wasn’t feeling too hot. Stomach acid may have been leaking into my system and my laptop battery was in the red. I ordered a fourth coffee because I didn’t want to sit down without buying something like a chump, but I wasn’t hungry. A regular stood in line in front of me. He happily chatted away with the baristo. But when I was up, I got the customer service cold front. I got text wrap around my irises–the man was repelled by my very gaze. Was this real or a product of my coffee bean high? I’m pretty sure it was real. The place was packed and the outlets here are sparse–that is one real drawback to writing in the shop. If you’re a presser of keys who needs a charge, you’ll have to hope for a seat at the high table near the front door where you’ll find an outlet.

I cursed under my breath. I could only stay for 25 minutes, after which time my laptop would flip me off. I slapped my MacBook open to log on to the Wifi and saw this:

Hipsters GTFO Wifi

It was like the universe was telling me to GTFO. So I did.

I typed out my angry rant wherein I would have told you all to stay away, but I ruminated on it… I’ve had bad days, haven’t I? Maybe coffee shops have bad days too.

So I showed up on another Saturday around the same time, but only after half a cup at Highland Cafe. Both baristas greeted me sweetly and cheerfully. A cute design was rendered in my cappuccino foam (they serve Stumptown Coffee Roasters here if that means anything to you). It wasn’t as crowded that day, so I got a better look at the place and found myself charmed by its quaintness: the cruiser bike mounted high on the wall, the grass-green patio chairs, the exposed ceiling beams and general airiness of the cafe. I took a deep breath and sat at that high table (though I showed up fully charged like a pro).

Cafe de Leche Window

I re-read my review as the barista/os laughed and joked around behind me. A warm flood of shame washed across my face. What a jerk.

Cafe de Leche isn’t my Highland Cafe–the seating is a bit claustrophobic for the paranoid writer who thinks everyone is checking for typos over her shoulder–but it’s not the place I’d been ready to paint it as. Moral of the story.

I’m glad I gave Leche a second chance. Not bad. Not bad at all.

Viscosity: 3.5 out of 5

Busters Coffee Tech

Buster’s Coffee–South Pasadena

I’m going to admit straightaway that I’m biased about Buster’s. I used to go to the double-decker coffee shop for shakes and Italian sodas with my dad all the time as a kid, so this retro establishment resides in the warm, fuzzy area of my memories. I wore a Gaussian blur veil stepping into the place which, by the way, hasn’t changed since I first started going.

Okay, a couple of things have changed. The shopkeepers maintain a few funny, somewhat boggling, rules about technology. No cell phones while placing your order: 100% understandable and it’s sad they need a sign for that. Only use laptops at non-yellow tables upstairs? Oooookay. They’re also strict about how long you use their Wifi. I guess they don’t want you occupying their tables for an inordinate length of time. I get it. I’ve seen people walk in and then immediately out of shops with unrestricted Wifi because every seat was occupied, including large tables taken up by a single occupant chained to his or her laptop. That’s business lost. Which is why I always either order food with my coffee or buy two drinks when I stay at any cafe for a long stretch, and I try to take up the least amount of space possible since I’m usually alone or with one other person. If I’m at a cafe that long, it usually means I like the place, which means I want it to stay in business.

Busters Fosselmans Ice Cream

Buster’s epitomizes kitsch. If your story is set in the 50s or 60s, you have to try writing here. I promise you’ll be inspired. And if you’re not completely satisfied, get yourself a chocolate malt and all regrets will slip away. Magic. The cafe is full of teal, brick red, orange. The tables and chairs are rustic, painted things; everything has a haphazard, grandma’s attic appeal.

Oh and there’s a door to nowhere. If you opened it and stepped out, you’d fall through space and land on the Metro Rail tracks. I’m pretty sure the staff push technology rule-breakers out of this door.

Busters CoffeeThe coffee here is always good. It’s mellow and unobtrusive. It might be Chock Full o’Nuts–nobody here is swishing coffee around their mouths to identify the notes in their beans. The “technology area” upstairs is nice and quiet. It’s an enclave with a nice view of the similarly old-timey strip of Mission Street it sits on.

One thing to note is that Buster’s gets intense on hot days. The sun brings in ice cream addicts because their shakes and malts are menu highlights. It crowds fast. Ice cream also draws kids, so you might be swarmed by half-pints. But on a weekday during work hours or on an off weekend, the place is a slice of vintage heaven.

And there's a cute used bookstore across the street!

And there’s a cute used bookstore across the street!

Viscosity: 3.75 out of 5

The ubiquitous Justi in a cafe pic.

The ubiquitous Justi in a cafe pic. @Highland Cafe

Highland Cafe–Highland Park

I had to hold off on telling you about this place for a while because I had to pee on it first. Okay, I didn’t really pee on it, but I did have to establish my presence here before putting it on blast.

You know when you find a place that you want so badly to be your Cheers? That’s how I feel about Highland Cafe. It’s right down the street from me, it has just the right ambience, super writer-friendly layout, Wifi, nice staff, great food and, importantly, strong coffee. Although, they serve Handsome Coffee, which leans toward acidic in its plain, hot state. I’d recommend the cappuccino, which is my favorite form of coffee anyway. But they don’t stop at coffee. Highland offers a delicious and (mostly) nutritious breakfast and lunch menu. I recommend the huevos rancheros.

Highland Cafe Huevos Rancheros

This is the coffee shop I’ve been looking for and the reason I can never move.

I even considered not talking about this place at all. My Gollum-desire to keep the precious battled it out with my moral duty to report on amazing writing spaces for the good of the collective. Guess who won? One day I’m going to crush you under my boot, Jiminy Cricket.

Highland Cafe is one of a few new shops that opened up on Figueroa, a Highland Park street that has been crawling toward gentrification for about six years. It’s starting to look a lot like Silverlake. I don’t mean that in a wholly bad way. Sure, the Wifi networks around these parts are now riddled with outraged contempt, but I kinda like what the old neighborhood is becoming. I’m not restricted to hanging out at Jack in the Box on Eagle Rock Blvd anymore.

Highland Cafe Art

I certainly can’t find anything despicable about Highland Cafe. This is the kind of place where the waiters dance with each other behind the counter and croon along with Morrisey, albeit tunelessly. This is the kind of place where they enthusiastically shout their goodbyes as you scurry out the door. This is where I want to be when I write.

Viscosity: 5 out of 5 (!!)

Best Place to Write in Los Angeles #6

Best Place to Write in Los Angeles #4


Best Place to Write in Los Angeles #4

Holy Grounds Coffee 2

Holy Grounds Coffee & Tea–El Sereno

I shielded my eyes from the sun and stared out at the quiet, open street in front of a folksy, colorful cafe. I would never have traveled down that section of Alhambra Avenue on a random search for coffee and would later pause to thank whatever coincidence led Justi to learn of Holy Grounds‘ existence. It was Justi I waited for. She was joining me for coffee, as usual, but not for the usual reasons.

I didn’t have my laptop and loose pages of ink-splattered manuscript that day. We weren’t meeting to write or study; we were meeting on personal business–to talk about endings and beginnings. We were both going through the same thing at the same time, and I for one needed to bend a nonjudgmental ear. Thank goodness Justi expresses the recessive gene that makes her ears just so.

Holy Grounds Coffee 1

I was early, so I went in to order a cup of coffee. I threw caution to wind and chose something with dairy–lactose intolerance be damned during times of war. The waitress was friendly and sociable. She talked about the coffee shop as if it was an old friend, and as she talked, I began to feel like I was in someone’s home, having a chat. I took my coffee outside to the open square. The sun beamed down on the tables and coruscated off the burbling water from a stone fountain. I really did start to feel like I was heading into therapy at that moment outside with the “nature track” playing around me.

Holy Grounds Coffee 3Justi strolled out minutes later with a diabolical coffee drink that put my dairy-infused beverage to shame. We talked for a long time, accompanied, for the most part, only by a tabby cat who sprawled out beside us to soak the heat.

Did I write? No. Can I unequivocally say Holy Grounds is a great place for writers? Yes. It had just the right ratio of noise to silence. Just the right mood. Just the right space. I only wonder if it would be challenging in less perfect weather as most of the seating is outdoors.

In any case, it’s spring. I’m returning with my laptop.

Viscosity: 4 out of 5

Tom N Toms 1

Tom N Toms–Koreatown (3974 Wilshire Blvd.)

I think that somewhere in Koreatown, there exists a Tom N Toms wrapped in a Tom N Toms stuffed with pureed Tom Tom N Toms 3N Toms. This chain coffee shop is ubiquitous in that neighborhood. I have seen Tom N Tomses two blocks away from each other. I’m not exaggerating–Justi was directing me to one of these coffee shops and I ended up at a different one just down the street. We were both confused.

Going to a Tom N Toms might be considered cheating in the context of this series, which focuses mainly on independent, local coffee shops, as it is the Starbucks of Koreatown. But Korean coffee shops have such a unique flavor to them, visiting does become an experience for the unfamiliar caffeine addict.

Ignore the random shocked man in the background...if you can.

Ignore the random shocked man in the background…if you can.

What coffee shop serves different types of brick toast? And I swear I had the best iced green tea latte ever here (Green Tea TomNccino).

I hear these coffee shops are packed with young, noisy types later in the day, and that they blast K-pop directly into your ears. Luckily, it was early in the day when we arrived and only a few older groups sat outside to people watch and chat on the porch with a soft soundtrack of bad, but ignorable, smooth jazz. So I can’t give these rumors credence. Yet.

Tom N Toms is near the top of my list in terms of how much work I got done.

I don’t live near this particular shop anymore, but I was informed about another near my office and recently checked it out. I’m not telling you about that one because I intend to use it as my almost-daily spot and I like having a place to park on the street.

Viscosity 4.5 out of 5

Best Place to Write in Los Angeles #5

Best Place to Write in Los Angeles #3

Best Place to Write in Los Angeles #2

Steampunk Cafe Menu

SteamPunk CoffeeBar + Kitchen — North Hollywood

Like many alternative and creative types, I threw myself into steampunk when it reared its brassy, cog-cluttered head a few years ago. And, like many, the glut of steampunk everything eventually became unbearable and I lost the ecstasy.

But I do have an appreciation for steampunk done well if not just for the aesthetic appeal. So when my coffee companion, Justi, told me about SteamPunk CoffeeBar + Kitchen in North Hollywood, jaded as I am, I immediately said, “let’s do this.”

Steampunk Cafe Decor

The coffee shop sits on a nondescript street. Strip malls, fast food, a random mix of small businesses. That kind of street. On this street, the café’s woodwork saloon storefront stands out. Inside it’s tats and laptops. The cashiers/waiters/possibly owners are friendly. They have a great breakfast menu–no cold pastries and bananas in baskets here. Justi and I ordered a traditional scramble and a coffee; we grabbed a table without any hassle. It always seems like we’re just ahead of the morning crowd.

I like the idea of writing feng shui and believe décor, as a component of atmosphere, can lend to (or stifle) one’s flow. I’d love nothing better than to write in a forest where the tree trunks are made of book bindings and the leaves of pages. Steampunk did originate in literature, so why shouldn’t steampunk décor provide some inspiration even if my works in progress have nothing to do with the genre?

Unfortunately, our arrival may have been premature for a moment of steampunk catharsis. The shop had that “still moving in” smell. And that’s how I learned that Justi is quite the interior designer (which was further explored at our next stop). She had a wealth of ideas for how the restaurant could improve their look on the cheap, and I recommend they hire her for a consultancy.

The place had some art by Brian Kesinger and the area behind the cash register was thought out with coppery panels on the walls and an early 20th(?) century cash register behind the counter. But after that you get bare white walls, exposed wiring (not in an artistic/crafty way) and unremarkable chairs and tables. If the draw is steampunk décor, the shop has a long way to go.

But–BUT–I got a lot of work done. At the time, I was rushing toward a deadline with my graphic novel and had a lot of revising to do before day’s end. Even with the distraction of good food, I got a ton of work done. The morning crowd never got too bad–an advantage of the shop’s newness, I suspect. It wasn’t too loud or cramped. I think it has great potential, especially if the service and food remain consistent.

Viscosity: (a surprising) 4 out of 5

Trails Menu

The Trails Cafe — Los Feliz

It was after visiting The Trails that I wondered if my next series should be “Strangest Places to Write in L.A.” The Trails is a coffee shop housed in a miniature cabin nestled in the woods of Griffith Park. No inside seating, just picnic tables but plenty of them. Best check the weather forecast before making plans to write here unless you prefer your paper soggy, your ink spattered, or your laptop fizzling. It was a surprisingly hot winter’s day when Justi and I made it out to Trails. Luck is always on the side of the voyager (unless you count the Donner Party…or Amelia Earhart…or Ernest Shackleton…or…).

Trails Coffee SignThere’s a fairytale feeling about this place. A fairytale that includes WiFi. Yes, outdoorsy WiFi. We couldn’t believe it either.

When you approach the front of the line (and I get the feeling there’s always a line), a gaggle of delectable baked on-site pastries peeks out at you from the window, and you’ll almost certainly order one. I got a strawberry rhubarb mini-pie because I can’t resist anything in miniature.

I got a decent amount of work done, even with a children’s party in full, screaming, swing around us. Oddly, the white noise of children may have helped (although I had to make sure none of the more horrifying images from the graphic novel were on my screen when a kidlet was nearby).

I’d say Trails is the place to go if you’re having writer’s block. If such a thing afflicts you, Justi suggests considering Walden while walking the trails, drinking a hot, deliciously piny cup of lapsang suchong.

Instead of searching the trails for plot devices and tropes, we went in search of branches, ill-prepared for clambering up hills (but clamber we did), because Justi had an attack of DIY after the steampunk place and needed a shelf. What better way to end a day of writing and caffeinating?

Viscosity: 3.5 out of 5

Best Place to Write in Los Angeles #1

Best Place to Write in Los Angeles #3

Best Place to Write in Los Angeles #1

Update: I decided to make this an ongoing series, so disregard the stuff about a three-part post.

An Exercise in Caffeine Tolerance

This week, I read about a study that showed our creative cognition is enhanced by the moderate noise level often present at cafes. Having read this, and perhaps gripped by the nauseating realization that I was averaging about one page of revisions per hour at home in my quiet room, I decided to venture into the wilds of metropolitan Los Angeles on a quest to find the best coffee shop for a local writer in desperate need of brain lubricant.

I obviously couldn’t visit every coffee shop in L.A., but I ventured to what I believe is a good cross-section pulled from Yelp lists, proximity, and, most helpfully, a survey of my Facebook friends. A big thank you to all who made suggestions. IOU one cuppa.

Because I can only handle so much caffeine in one day and because L.A. is a massive beast, my findings will be posted in three parts, somewhat by region.


Stir CrazyStir Crazy — Hollywood/Melrose

My quest began at the sleepy intersection that is Orange and Melrose at 10 a.m. on a Saturday. Two-hour free parking on the residential street right beside the shop was a good sign, and the street was almost free of cars. A few metered parking spots were available as well.

As I walked up to Stir Crazy, I saw a lone man sitting at a table outside with his laptop. Second good sign.

Inside, classical music lulled out of the sound system. Was this place too good to be true? At the counter, a young woman laughed with two seated middle-aged men. She farewelled them warmly and left with her order. The men two-stepped around a laptop debate for a couple of minutes before the shop fell into a hush, pulsated by a few murmurs.

The waitress took my order and muttered, “Do you want the bottomless coffee?” I wasn’t sure I’d heard her right.

“What was that?” I asked.

“Never mind,” she said. Something self-conscious in the way she said it.

“The bottomless coffee? Yeah, sure.”

Two bucks isn’t a bad price to avoid feeling like a jerk taking up space for a couple hours on a Saturday morning.

Stir Crazy Lamp

I grabbed a seat next to a power cord–a rare vacancy in Los Angeles–and took a sip of coffee. It wasn’t strong, but that’s okay. I’m no cowboy.

Everyone came alone. Everyone brought a laptop. Except Statler and Waldorf in the back corner, observing and making commentary once in a while.

Then groups and breakfasters started trickling in and, by 10:30, the shop was full and my coffee was cold.

Viscosity: 4 out of 5

By the way–WiFi Password: Surfyourballsoff (but don’t use it because you should be writing)

Bricks & SconesBricks & Scones — Mid-Wilshire

I gained a companion on my quest after leaving Stir Crazy. I picked up my friend Justi and we awayed to Bricks & Scones.

Where Stir Crazy is a rustic establishment in the cozy style of a hunting cabin, Bricks & Scones is the Downton Abbey of coffee shops. Stepping inside, the first thing I noticed was the massive glittering chandelier hanging over the register.

Awed and feeling a little like Oliver Twist at Mr. Brownlow’s, I put in my order. “Please, mum, can I have a grilled cheese and tomato soup?” I said. Maybe not quite in those words, but I did order a grilled cheese and tomato soup with my second cup of coffee as the day was tit-nipply and drizzly. B&S had a bistro style menu with plenty of variety for a coffee shop, so if you happen to be writing around the noon hour as I was, you won’t starve.

Rainy Day Food

They offered two indoor seating areas–a quiet zone upstairs and a sprawling, noisier sector on the lower floor–but neither had an open table. It was the lunch hour, after all, and it was immediately obvious that the place is hipster-popular. Hardened adventurers that Justi and I are, we sat outside where plenty of patio chairs and tables were available. The food was good. There must be an edict against strong coffee in certain parts of L.A.

The crowd was more social than Stir Crazy’s early morning throng. They were lunchers and group studiers.

Between the food and chilliness, I didn’t get much work done. I’d like to return for a cozy nook indoors and try it out again, even if just to chat with friends.

Viscosity: 2 out of 5

Lyric CafeThe Lyric Hyperion Theatre and Cafe — Silverlake

Justi and I left Bricks & Scones’ Winterfellian patio in search of warmer climes, so we headed to Silverlake for Lyric Café and Theater. Metered street parking is the name of the game here, but it wasn’t hard to find a spot after a little initial confusion.

Quietest coffee shop by far, and they had gluten-free pancakes that were, according to Justi, delicious. They also had craft beer and a wine selection. I had a glass of wine thank you very much. A nice, fresh-tasting one that made me wistful for summer.

Lyric Cafe Company

My fellow journeywoman.

Warmest waitress so far as well. Inside seating is limited (and definitely not appropriate for groups, which shouldn’t be a problem if you’re writing anyway), but business was slow so we were able to nab a table for two. And there is seating for larger groups outside on the patio.

Yes, quietest coffee shop by far until rehearsal began on the other side of the wall. I imagine the play is called, “Screamers.” Somehow, it didn’t bother me. I managed to get some (blog) writing done.

Viscosity: 3 out of 5

Best Place to Write in Los Angeles #2